Big Brand Tire & Service

2012-02-24T10:24:00.003-08:00

Besure to check your shocks and struts when you get your oil changed

Not all vehicles have both shocks and struts.Some have just struts and some vehicles have only shocks. The shocks and/orstruts in your car perform two functions. They dampen spring oscillation, andsecondly, they aid in ride control. Let's look at these two jobs in moredetail.

The springs in your car actually absorb road shocks (notthe shock absorbers). The shock absorber's function is to dampen the bouncingspring. If you did not have shock absorbers to dampen the springoscillations from road shock, your car would bounce repeatedly every time you hit abump in the road, making it very difficult to handle and dangerous. Theshock absorbers in your car aid in ride control by keeping the car manageableduring regular driving. They do this by keeping the tires down on the road andnot allowing them to bounce after hitting a bump. This allows for ease ofcornering and handling.

Here are the signs that you may need new shocks and/orstruts:

• Vehicle rolls or sways on turns

• Front end dives when braking

• Rear end squats when accelerating

• Vehicle bounces or slides sideways on a winding, roughroad

• Vehicle "bottoms out" (with a thump) on bumps

In addition, worn shocks and/or struts can accelerate thewear of your tires

and suspension parts ... the ball joints, steeringlinkage, springs and C.V. joints.

Things to look for include:

• Leaks on the housing

• Dents on the shock or strut body

• Worn rubber mounting bushings

• Pitted piston rods

• Crushed rubber bumpers from "bottoming out"

• Abnormal wear on tires (high and low spots)

Don't cut corners when it comes to your shocks/struts.Proper functioning of these parts is essential to the handling and cornering ofyour vehicle, making for safer driving conditions. Preventative checkups arethe key to side-stepping the effects of worn shocks and/or struts. Have yourtechnician check them every time you have an oil change.

Proper alignment is critical for a smooth ride

2012-01-23T16:17:00.000-08:00

Wheel alignment and balancing are two different things, but many people often get them confused. Wheel alignment involves adjusting the angles of the wheels so they are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other. Wheel balancing, on the other hand, allows the tires and wheels to spin without causing any vibrations.

Proper alignment involves the adjustment of the vehicle’s suspension, not the tires and wheels. A properly aligned vehicle provides optimum handling, better fuel mileage and increased tire life. Improperly aligned vehicles can cause both handling problems and premature tire wear.

There are three critical angles in an alignment: camber, caster and toe.

Camber is the vertical angle of the tire from top to bottom. When the wheels tilt outward at the top it will result in premature wear on the outside of the tire. When the wheels tilt inward at the top it will result in premature wear on the inside of the tire.

Caster is the angle of the steering axis. If the caster is out of adjustment, it can cause problems in straight line tracking or cause shimmying. If the caster is different from side to side, the vehicle will pull to one side.

Toe describes whether the front ends of the tires are closer or farther apart than the rear ends of the tire. When the front ends of the tires are turned inward (pigeon-toed), toe is positive (toe-in). When the front ends are turned outward, toe is negative (toe-out). With proper toe, the tires run parallel to each other, giving the vehicle a smooth ride. An incorrect toe setting will cause either pulling, feathered tire wear or excessive tire wear.

Four-wheel alignments involve adjusting the rear wheels to achieve proper camber and toe, then adjusting the front wheels. They cost slightly more due to the additional time required. Four-wheel alignments are recommended for most front-wheel drive cars, as well as rear-wheel drive vehicles with independent suspension.

A computerized alignment check takes out any guesswork when it comes to alignment angles. Retailers who perform alignments should always give you a printout showing you which angles need adjusting prior to performing any alignment work.

New Tires Go in the Rear (Or at least your Better Tires Go in the Rear)

2011-11-14T17:19:00.000-08:00

It used to be that, if you were only buying 2 tires, it was recommended to put the new tires on the drive axle (new tires on the front of a front-wheel drive car; new tires on the rear of a rear-wheel drive car). Then, the safety rule changed.

Then the rule changed, and it made perfect sense (at the time). We were told that, no matter what, the new tires should be put on the front. This was mainly due to your steering traction being in the front.

And now... welcome to the next phase of tires safety: It is recommended to put the two best tires on the rear of your vehicle, regardless of whether it is front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive.

Why? This is especially important with Winter looming around the corner with its wet, stormy weather and unfriendly driving conditions.

If you are driving and your car starts to hydroplane in the water, the rear tires can more easily slide out from underneath the car and send you spinning out of control if they are worn. And if the tread is worn on the rear tires, no amount of tread on the front tires can save you from spinning out of control.

Check out the following short video that explains and shows exactly why this is so important: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--Hb5kQCaTg

Remember: it's fine to replace your tires two at a time so long as you're within legal specifications (at least 2/32" of tread, although 4/32" is recommended). Just make sure you're as safe as you can be, especially in winter driving conditions.

Big Brand Tire serves Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Smog, Air Pollution and How Your Tires Pollute the Air

2011-11-09T17:02:00.000-08:00

Smog, Air Pollution and How Your Tires Pollute the Air: Don't worry, it's not your fault.

Common knowledge will have you believe that the blanket of smog we see over big cities and metropolitan areas with heavy traffic is from vehicle exhaust. Los Angeles, the Silicon Valley, California's Central Valley and other traffic-ridden areas across the nation all have that layer of smog - that grayish-brown cloud that envelops our otherwise beautiful cities. While a significant portion of that smog layer is, indeed, vehicle exhaust, it's also particulate matter from worn tires (among many other things).

Los Angeles Smog: much is from vehicle exhaust;
much is from particulate matter from tires;
much is from a lot of other stuff, too.

Microscopic chunks (particles) of your tires get scraped off from the friction of the road while driving, and then that particulate matter gets swept up into the air, contributing to the smog layer.

In the tire industry, the good news is that tires are handling better and better and they're even lasting longer and longer. The bad news is that the tires that are lasting longer and longer are the ones that originally didn't last very long to begin with. Performance tires used to last 15,000 to 30,000 miles if you were lucky. Now, we're seeing performance tire warranties eclipse 50,000 miles and even 60,000 miles (you still have to maintain them properly or else they'll never make it... but that's a different article altogether).

The bad news is that the tires that typically lasted - and still last - 60,000 miles to 90,000 miles are becoming somewhat obsolete.

The tires that used to fit on compact trucks, sedans and family cars were typically a 75-series tire or a 70-series tire. These taller tires simply don't handle as well, and we, the drivers, demand a car - or even a light truck - to handle responsively, therefore, the 70-series tires and 75-series tires are going away, slowly but surely.

So, while performance tires are improving their pollution levels, there are many more of them on the road now than before, so it appears the tire industry may be chasing its tail in the race for reducing tire pollution.

To help, many tire manufacturers are making "green tires". GoodYear Assurance FuelMax, Pirelli "Verde" branded tires, and Michelin Energy Saver tires are just a few on the market these days. The idea is to create a tire that reduces what is called "roll resistance." Basically, this means that these tires are supposed to keep a perfect balance between enough tire friction to provide great handling while still reducing friction in order to create longer-lasting tires. The convenient by-product of such a tire is that, while it lasts longer, it also saves on fuel economy and reduces tire pollution.

All these improvements aren't gong to eliminate smog, but just like back in the 1970s, when we could barely see the mountaintops around certain cities, smog regulations (like them or not) did seem to help reduce pollution over time. Whether we need government regulations being imposed on tire manufacturers is another question, however... and we'll leave that to the political blogs.

Big Brand Tire serves Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Cars That Kill Batteries

2011-10-27T11:40:00.000-07:00

Cars That Kill BatteriesSometimes it's the car's fault, sometimes it's the battery's fault, and sometimes it's the engineering team's fault for designing a car a certain way.

Honda Civic: Honda Civics don't exactly demand a lot of power from a battery, but the battery that fits in a Honda Civic - a Group Size 51 or 52 - is a tall, skinny battery that just can't take the punishment in most driving conditions. Either the heat under the hood kills it early, or the cold climate kills it early - or both. A lot of Civics are commuter cars in warm and cold climates alike which keeps them running hot, and that can kill a battery prematurely.

Ford Mustang: Ford Mustangs are reliable cars for the most part, but, similar to the Honda Civic, the Ford Mustang was designed in such a way that only a certain size of battery would even fit into it. It's the opposite of a Civic battery in that it's a short and squatty Group Size 58 or 59, but the downside is the same. Because of the car battery's limited size, it also can't take the punishment of constant heat, let alone the constant change between hot and cold.

Jeep Cherokee: Some models take the same group size as the Ford Mustang, therefore the Jeep Cherokee has the same issues with the battery.

Fords from the 80s and some from the 90s: A lot of Fords used a now-defunct Group Size 56. It was similar to the Group 51 in a Honda Civic in that it was tall and skinny (not quite as skinny, but close). On top of that, the Group 56 was used to crank over a lot of big V8 engines every day.

Any vehicle with excess electrical equipment: This can be from after-market stereo equipment, DVD players, and anything else that uses extra power. It can also be any car with stock electronic gadgets, direct from the factory. Think of it this way: a car battery is made to sit there and do nothing while your alternator runs everything in the electrical system while also recharging your battery for the next time you start it. However, if the electrical equipment in your car uses more power than what your alternator puts out, that means your battery has to work constantly to supply that extra power - there's nowhere else for your vehicle to get power except for the battery. Over time, this will overwork your battery and may cause it to die an early death.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

When Do I Need a New Car Battery?

2011-10-27T11:10:00.000-07:00

When Do I Need a New Car Battery?
The bad news is there's usually no way to tell until it just wakes up dead on you one morning on your way to work. But, if you're extra paranoid about it and you don't want to risk waiting for that day to come, most Original Equipment batteries ("OE Battery" or "OEM battery") that come new with your car will last anywhere between 3-5 years.

How to Tell If You're Losing Battery Power
A lot of times, you won't get a significant warning - it'll just wake up dead one day like we said. However, sometimes you'll get a bit of an advanced warning.

* If your car is suddenly taking a little longer to crank over when you turn the key, your battery may have lost some of its power.
* If you had to jump start your battery, even if you accidentally left a light on, that can shock the inner cells of your battery (no pun intended). If you start to notice it';s taking longer to turn over after you had to jump start it, it may be time to get a new battery before it leaves you stranded.
* If you're extra-precautionary and you know your battery is more than 4 years old, you may just want to get it replaced.

Different cars take different kinds of batteries, too, and different cars use batteries differently, meaning some cars eat batteries more often than others. For more info on this, check out our blog on Cars that Kill Batteries.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

2 Ways to Tell if You Need Tires

2011-10-19T15:48:00.000-07:00

Do You Need New Tires? Are You Sure? Our Two Greatest American Presidents Can Tell You.

George Washington and Abraham Lincoln were pretty smart guys. They really knew how to use their heads. In fact, not only did they use their heads, they were very honest men. George Washington “could not tell a lie,” and Lincoln was nicknamed “Honest Abe.” While their main legacy lives on as American Presidents who successfully guided our country through some of its most trying times, we carry on their legacy of truthfulness and integrity right here in the tire industry… by using their heads.

Take a Penny, turn it upside down and stick it in your tire tread, head first. If the tread comes to Lincoln’s head, you’re at exactly 2/32 of an inch of tread left, which is the legal limit (if the tread doesn’t come to Abe’s head, you need new tires).

If your tires passed the penny test, go grab a quarter.

Now, take your quarter, turn it upside down and stick it in your tire tread, head first. If the tread comes to Washington’s head, you have exactly 4/32 of an inch of tread left. The good news is that your tires are legally OK, however, at 4/32”, independent research shows that tires don’t handle as well as they did when they were new(er). Furthermore, and maybe more importantly, the braking distance on tires with 4/32” of tread is significantly worse than with new(er) tires, especially in wet conditions.

In a nutshell, you should seriously consider getting new tires if your tires fail the quarter test, and you definitely need new tires if you fail the penny test.

The Good News…

Big Brand Tire has an Exclusive $70 Mail in Rebate – ONLY at Big Brand – on select Michelin tires through October 30.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

How To Read Your Tire Size

2011-10-10T16:54:00.000-07:00

First of all, the most important thing to remember is this: your tires are the only parts of your car that touch the road. (If other parts of your car are touching the road, you've got bigger fish to fry)

Now then, on to how to read your tire size:

Sample: P235/65/R17 104 H
P = Passenger rated (if you have a truck, van or heavy vehicle that gets loaded up with extra weight, you may have an "LT" tire, which stands for Light Truck)
235 = the width of your tire (in millimeters)
65 = the sidewall (AKA: "profile"; some people simply call it the "height" of your tire); the "65" actually means that 65% of the rubber that makes your tire is in the sidewalls, therefore, the higher the number, the taller the tire.
R = Radial. Radial is kind of redundant these days since you won't find a non-radial tire out there for any vehicles any more.
17 = the diameter of your rim (in inches)
104 = Load Range. The manufacturer of your vehicle specifies a minimum load-carrying capacity for the tires that fit on it. The proper load range (along with the entire tire size) in your manual or your local tire pro should be able to track down the minimum requirements.
H = Speed Rating. Not that you're gonna go all Speed Racer on us, of course, but the speed rating is important. It's not so much the top speed as it is the handling characteristics of the tires. If you change the speed rating of your tires, chances are good your car will handle differently, for better or worse depending on what you get.

Special note: inside your door jamb, there's also a placard that shows the proper tire size and tire inflation. Follow the manufacturer's specifications for your tire inflation. Improperly inflated tires - too high or too low - can be extremely dangerous and can also wear out your tires prematurely, voiding any mileage warranty. Do NOT use the inflation that is printed on the tire - that is only for maximum inflation that the tire can withstand before blowing up, not the proper inflation to help your car, truck or SUV handle and perform the way it was designed.

If you have any questions, you can reach us here or at our Big Brand Tire website. Talk to your local tire pros to see which tires are the best fit for you and your vehicle.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Synthetic Oil vs. Regular Oil

2011-10-06T10:14:00.000-07:00

Lots of questions show up all over the place regarding Synthetic Oil vs. Regular Oil. Questions like, What is synthetic oil? and various questions about synthetic motor oil, synthetic oil changes, should I go with synthetic or regular oil, etc.

Now, with all these questions, we could get really, super uber nerdy with the answers as it deals with a lot of chemistry, oil refinement and all kinds of science talk.

Forget all that - we're going to explain it as simply as we can using some crude analogies... get it?... "Crude"?

Okay, sorry. Here goes:

Synthetic Oil vs. Regular Oil: Synthetic oil is made of round, circular molecules. Regular oil (also called "conventional oil") is imperfect like everything else that occurs naturally in nature.

Regular oil molecules have rough edges and even sharp edges. While it's still quite viscous, regular oil tends to break down faster at the molecular level due to these sharp edges clashing and crashing into each other in movement and breaking each other apart.

Synthetic oil, on the other hand, with its round molecular structure, tends to act more like ball bearings. With the rounded edges, synthetic oil takes longer to break down. When the molecules crash into each other, it's two rounded objects ricocheting as opposed to jagged edges getting caught together and breaking each other apart.

You can also think of it like a ball pit at the local Chuck E Cheese (or wherever). The friction in the ball pit is almost non-existent because of the shape of the balls in the pit. Now... what if Chuck E replaced those perfectly round balls with fragile items with sharp edges? Jacks, wooden blocks, champagne flutes, coffee cups, and bricks all mixed in with those balls? Wouldn't be so easy to get around without busting things up, would it? That's a "crude" (snicker) model to illustrate what happens to your engine's pistons and the (extreme) difference in synthetic oil vs regular oil.

You can also think of it this way: would you rather use ball bearings or randomly-shaped bearings with sharp edges? Which would roll better? Which would reduce friction? Which would break apart faster from constant use?

Right. There's a reason wheels are round, and that's the same reason synthetic oil is worth it. Will regular oil work, too? Yup. Will it work as well for as long? Nope. Less friction = a longer-lasting engine. If you can afford it, synthetic is worth the price, especially if your vehicle already has high mileage.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Tire Rotations: When, Why and How Much?

2011-09-23T16:56:00.000-07:00

Tire Rotation – What, Why, When and How Much?

WHAT

In most cases, a tire rotation is the simple act of switching your front tires to the rear and vice-versa.

HOW MUCH? FREE!

Good news: Big Brand Tire will rotate your tires for free even if you didn’t buy them from us. Chances are, if you’re reading this, you probably need a tire rotation, and the good news is it’s always free at Big BrandTire (so are flat repairs, but that’s another article).

WHY?

You need to rotate your tires because your front tires will usually wear out sooner than the rear tires. Why is this? Actually, there are several factors. One factor is that, on front-wheel drive vehicles, the front tires will wear out faster simply because they’re doing most of the work. On top of that, the engine is in the front of the vast majority of vehicles, and that added weight over the front tires causes them to wear out faster, too. Even more important than that is the fact that your steering is all done in the front of your vehicle. The added friction between the road and the tires when they turn left and right over and over and over will chew up your front tires faster than the rear. Even rear-wheel drive vehicles will usually see the front tires wear out faster due to the engine weight and steering in the front.

WHEN?

The general recommendation for a tire rotation is to have it done every 5,000 miles, although the real strategy here is to have it done in equal intervals so that the tires spend equal time on the front and the rear. This will help to maximize the life of your tires. Even more importantly, if you don’t rotate your tires regularly, your mileage warranty will likely be void. Tires that don’t get rotated don’t stand a chance of making it through a mileage warranty (the front tires will wear out while the rear tires will show about half the wear).

Even if you forget to rotate your tires for 10,000 miles, wait another 10,000 miles until your next rotation (remember, it’s all about equal time) if it’s safe to wait that long. After that, then go back to the regular intervals.

“How am I supposed to remember to do that every 5,000 miles when I can’t remember anything else?”

Easy. Remember, it’s all about equal time. If it’s easier for you to remember to get the oil changed every 3,000 miles, just do it every oil change… or every other oil change if you want. Just remember equal time. Plus, don’t forget that Big Brand Tire will do it for free any time you want, so you might as well get it done any time you want.

If you’re not sure if you need a tire rotation, have one of the pros at Big Brand check the tread depth on all your tires. We’ll be able to tell by looking at them in most cases.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Alignment: The Dirty Little Secret

2011-09-23T16:37:00.000-07:00

THE DIRTY SECRET OF DOING AN ALIGNMENT

Unlike many vehicle repairs which last a long time, an Alignment is not typically a long-term fix. The most obvious sign that your alignment is out is that your vehicle will pull one way or the other. A more accurate way to tell if your alignment is off is to look at your tires regardless of whether your vehicle is pulling or not.

Why does my alignment go out in the first place?

The main reason is that you have to turn your wheels – simple as that. Unless you drive in a straight line all day, every day, your alignment is probably out of specs. In fact, even if you do only drive straight, your alignment may be out of specs simply due to the weight of your vehicle, bumps in the road, etc., but we’ll cover that later.

The simple act of turning your front wheels left and right, left and right, left and right thousands of times while you drive is enough to cause your wheels to go out of alignment. When your wheels turn, your vehicle pushes against your tires, and the combination of inertia, weight and friction between your tires and the road is what causes your vehicle to turn. Over time, being that your vehicle weighs somewhere between 2,000 – 10,000 pounds, eventually, all that inertia and weight will also push your tires inward causing your “Toe Angle” to go out of specs. Picture your tires being slightly “pigeon-toed” – both pointing inward causing the outer edge of your tires to contact the road first, therefore, wearing the outside edge of your tires prematurely.

Another mental/visual example for those of you who ski: remember your first lesson where the instructor taught you to “snow-plow” down the mountain? Your Toe angle will look like that over time. Also note that the snow-plow effect slowed you down significantly, didn’t it? The same thing happens with your car, hence your tires wear out on the outside edge faster since that’s where the friction is.

We mentioned the weight of your vehicle earlier. Another common alignment angle to go out of specs is called your “Camber Angle.” As your heavy vehicle goes down the road, it bounces constantly over bumps, big and small. Over time this will push the bottom of your tires outward so that your tires aren’t sitting flat against the road. The inner edge of the tires will take the majority of the punishment from the road, causing the inside edges of your tires to wear out prematurely.

The good news…

When your alignment goes out, it’s usually nothing you did wrong. In other words, it’s probably not your fault. The bad news, however, is that you do need to your alignment adjusted regularly in order to keep your tires from wearing out prematurely. Also, tires that are worn prematurely due to uneven wear will not be covered under any warranty.

How often should I get the alignment done on my car?

Each car is different and each driver is different, but in general you should have the alignment done at least once a year, if not twice. Keep in mind that the shop that does your alignment is not supposed to charge you full price if your vehicle doesn’t need any alignment adjustments. They should also give you a before-and-after computer printout of the alignment angles (they should also be able to easily explain what the printout means – what was in and out of specs before and after the alignment). Also, if you ever feel your vehicle pulling one way or the other, you should have the alignment adjusted right away. Assuming all your tires are inflated properly, a pulling car is a clear indication that the alignment is off (or that you need a front end part replaced – but that’s another article).

What can I do to prevent a bad alignment?

Honestly? Almost nothing. Obviously, you don’t want to run over curbs or potholes or test your car’s capabilities against your favorite episode of the Dukes of Hazzard, but other than that, there’s really nothing you can do. Just drive it at safe speeds, turn when you have to and go have the alignment checked out once or twice a year.

How much should I pay for an alignment?

The initial cost of alignment, depending on your vehicle, is anywhere from $50 on up to well over $100 (it depends on the scope of work that needs to be done, what shop does it and how much they charge, etc.). Compared to buying a new set of tires every 10,000-20,000 miles instead of what your tire warranty says they’re supposed to last, an alignment is pretty inexpensive. Then again, so is most vehicle maintenance stuff.

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire

Better Handling Tires for (almost) Any Vehicle

2011-09-23T16:16:00.000-07:00

How Do I Improve My Car’s Handling Without Breaking the Bank?

We see all these youngsters riding around in their lowered import tuners, and we think, “Is it really worth all that money?” Taking a car that started with just over 100 horsepower and turning it into a 300+ horsepower race car takes time, skills, training and money (especially if you want to do it right). But what if you just want your car to take the occasional turn a little tighter, you know, when the kids aren’t throwing toys around the back seat at each other?

Most of us don’t want a hot rod, we just want to improve the performance of our regular, every-day stock cars.

Tire size can make a world of difference.

The most economical way to improve your handling is to change your stock tire size to a better-handling size. Consult your local tire dealer about what tire fitments are allowed for your vehicle, but in general, here’s how it works:

Ask for a Plus Zero Fitment. A plus zero fitment basically means that you’re changing the sidewall of the tire to be shorter while also increasing the amount of tread that contacts the road (basically, a slightly lower and wider tire). Here’s an example:

Stock Size: P215/65/R16

Plus Zero Fitment: P225/60/R16
215 (or 225) = the width of the tire in millimeters.
65 (or 60) = the percentage of the tire that is the sidewalls.
16 = the overall diameter of the rim.

In this example, we increased the 215 one size to 225. While we increase the width, we need to keep the overall diameter as close as possible so we don’t affect the vehicle height. To do this, we decrease the height of the tire (also called “profile” as in “low-profile tires”) from 65 down to 60. This will keep the approximate overall diameter of the tire and wheel about the same as the stock tire size, but it will put more rubber on the road as opposed to on the sidewall giving you better traction and less sidewall flex.

Basically, the wider the tire, the more tread you have to grip the road. Likewise, the lower your sidewall, the less rubber there is to flex. More rubber on the road + less flex in the sidewall = better handling around corners.

Pros and Cons of Plus Sizing

Pros: Better handling, increased stability in emergency turning situations, higher speed-rated tires (in many cases).
Cons: Slightly decreased fuel economy, possibly rougher ride (less cushion in the sidewall), possibly higher-priced tires (although, sometimes you may find lower prices by going with a plus zero fitment there may be more options than the stock size).

Can I get better handling with new rims?

Absolutely, especially if you really want significantly better-handling capabilities, but the price tag is obviously much higher. Here’s how a Plus One Fitment works:

Stock Size: P225/60/R16

Plus One Fitment: P235/50/R17 (or possibly P245/50/R17)

Much like the Plus Zero Fitment, the Plus One Fitment increases the width of the tire usually by one size, although vehicle manufacturers will determine the proper or suggested after-market fitments for their vehicles. It also decreases the sidewall of the tire 2 sizes (sizes are in increments of 5, i.e.: 60 down to 50 is two sizes; 65 down to 60 is one size, etc.). Basically, the way this works is the same as above except we also increased the rim diameter from 16 inches to 17 inches. Filling up the wheel well with more rim and less rubber will give you better handling and cornering capabilities, but it will also decrease the cushion of your ride. Think of it this way: the closer the road gets to that metal rim, the more bumps you’re going to feel from the road. At the same time, the lower your tire’s sidewall, the better handling you’re going to have around corners.

Keep in mind…

The engineers who designed your vehicle are pretty smart people. Their top priority in making their vehicles is to keep their drivers safe. The next priority is to make sure drivers enjoy the experience as much as possible in their cars. The third priority is to keep them affordable (that’s where the crappy tire sizes and low-end wheels come into play). This combination forces them to develop certain standards in all their cars, such as Speed Rating and Load Range when it comes to tires. Make sure that you follow the manufacturer’s specifications when Plus Sizing. All legalities aside, this really is very important to keep the ratings of your tires at or above the manufacturer’s specifications. Like we said, the engineers who design the vehicles are pretty smart people who do things for a reason. Unless you’re smarter than they are, don’t mess with their specs!

So long as the manufacturer says it’s okay, you can Plus Zero, Plus One, or even Plus Two your vehicle to get it to handle (and probably look) better. This ranges from tricking out an import tuner to beefing up your family minivan, again, so long as the vehicle manufacturer says it’s okay… and let’s face it… how sweet would it be to be able to hang corners in your minivan with the kids in the back screaming, “Woohoo!”?

Big Brand Tire services Ventura County, Kern County and California's Central Coast.
Twitter: BigBrandTire1
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bigbrandtire